Farewell And Adieu To You Fair Spanish Ladies

How would you
like to stand
like a god
before the crest
of a monster billow,
always rushing
to the bottom
of a hill
and never reaching
its base,
and to come rushing
in for a half mile
at express speed,
in graceful attitude,
until you reach the beach
and step easily from the wave?
--Duke Kahanamoku

outside Escalante Canyon
upper Hermit Canyon
Mike Parsons surfing Jaws
Clear Creek Canyon
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feel so near