The River Rolls In Solemn Majesty (July 23, 1869)

From the journals of John Wesley Powell:

July 23, 1869/

On starting, we come at once to difficult rapids and falls that in many places are more abrupt than in any of the canyons through which we have passed. From morning until noon the course of the river is to the west. The scenery is grand, with rapids and falls below, and walls above, beset with crags and pinnacles. Just at noon we wheel again to the south and go into camp for dinner.

Our way after dinner is through a gorge, grand beyond description. The walls are nearly vertical, the river broad and swift, but free from rocks and falls. From the edge of the water to the brink of the cliffs it is 1600 to 1800 feet. At this great depth the river rolls in solemn majesty. The cliffs are reflected from the more quiet river, and we seem to be in the depths of the earth, and yet we can look down into waters that reflect a bottomless abyss.

Early in the afternoon we arrive at the head of more rapids and falls, but, wearied with past work, we determine to rest and so go into camp. The afternoon and evening are spent by the men in discussing the probabilities of successfully navigating the river below. The conclusion at which the men arrive seems to be this: that there are great descents yet to be made, but if they are distributed in rapids and short falls, as they have been heretofore, we shall be able to overcome them. But maybe we shall come to a fall in these canyons which we cannot pass, where the walls rise from the water's edge, so that we cannot land, and where the water is so swift that we cannot return. Such places have been found, except that the falls were not so great but that we could run them with safety. How will it be in the future? So they speculate over the serious probabilities in a jesting mood.

approaching Turquoise Canyon from the east (top)

river at the mouth of 51 Mile Canyon (middle)

Confucius and Mencius Temples from outside Slate Canyon (below)